GM Offers Scheduled Maintenance for Silverado, Too

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For the months of March and April, Chevrolet will offer free scheduled maintenance for its Silverado 1500 pickup trucks, expanding the program started last month by GMC with the Sierra 1500. Now both GM half-ton pickup trucks will offer two years of free scheduled oil changes and standard maintenance through dealerships as a carrot to truck buyers who may still be hesitant to purchase a new pickup.

According to Automotive News, the reason GM included Chevy in the promotion was because of the campaign's success with the Sierra 1500; the company received great feedback from buyers and dealerships.

The package includes oil and filter changes, tire rotations and vehicle inspections for two years or 24,000 miles, which ever comes first, but is only good until the end of April. The promotion is designed to help thin out inventories of the light-duty trucks as the 2014 models prepare for their debut in dealerships later this summer.

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Comments

Anything to sell a truck.

I don't like dealer oil changes, or any quick lubes. They start draining your oil and stick the plug right back in, on an engine that takes 30 minutes for the oil to drain into the pan, so you might leave up to a half quart of the old oil in, that could all drained out if you do it yourself (if you have the time) I would rather let a warm engine just shut down drain for 30 min.

Of course, there is always some "dirty" oil left in the engine, it won't completely drain out and could take hours to get more.

It sure isn't free. It just comes off the amount they would go down to, but some people may not haggle as much, so they wont find out how much they would come down.

Advice for buying a GM truck: Sing a song, and see if you can get the truck for a song! Overcrowded lots!

@ TRX4tom

Just shows how much you dont understand about the business. it has NOTHING AT ALL to do with how much money the dealer pays for a vehicle, PERIOD.

A warm engine drains rather quickly and with everyone using 5w-20 and 0w-20 synthetic it doesnt take that long to drain at all. This isnt the 1980's anymore tom, noone uses 10w-30 anymore.

I am ALSO not defending the practices of some dealers being too quick, i'm just pointing out your lumping all dealers together which just isnt how dealers work anymore. When it comes to dealers the internet third party review sites have caused many "shady" dealers to straighten up alot.

another point to put out there Tom, maybe they are trying to get people to give the dealer a chance to truly earn peoples respect back so that they WILL see that the service dept.'s dont operate on loose morals anymore

With Geneva starting today I was hoping to finally get some figures for the GM twins. Do we have to wait until New York to get engine specs, capacities and mpg's?

Tom just hates anything to do with GM, probably just mad Ram hasn't offer this type of deal yet.

I'd rather change my oil, but some people don't have the time or know how to do it so its good deal for them.

hemilol: finaly something we agree on, and Tom, you have to start being less cynical, and hemilol has a very good point aboutthe dealer wanting to earn trust, maybe the glass is half full instead of emty! Even though I do not like to bring my trucks to a dealer for service, there are folks out there that have to do so, and it might even make them feel good for doing so, and it is not your place to get down on them for that, so you do not want to drive a Chevy/GMC, we get that, but there are a lot more of us out there that do, than drive a Ram, I for one do own a Dodge, and it has been very good to me, and I will be in the marketfor a new truck in the near future, I am also very much looking foward to driving a new Ram 8spd, but the Ram fanbois here are just to childish for me, and that might be a deciding factor.

@hemi lol --I would give the dealer the benefit of the doubt until they prove otherwise. I have been to some dealers that have an outstanding service department and others that are bad. My wife has a Taurus and I was going to get it serviced at the Ford dealer nearby, the service department had an answering machine. I called several times and always got an answering machine and not a directory or live person. I went across the river to another Ford dealership that is family owned for over 60 years and the service department was outstanding. I have heard the same things from friends that have other brands such as Toyotas where some dealer service departments are terrible and others are outstanding.

I agree with you about oil, with 5w30, 5w20, and modern synthetics a warm engine is enough to drain oil quickly. Sure if I change it myself I will warm it up and let the pan drip for a half an hour but that is probably not necessary. Most modern weight oils are lighter and warm up fairly quickly. Even my 99 S-10 calls for 5w30 and the engine reaches operating temperature quickly. I usually change my oil in less than 3k miles, even though it can go longer just out of habit and because I put less than the average amount of mileage on my vehicles. My oil usually never gets noticeably dirty.

Pretty cool. There is a lot of folks out there that will take advantage of this offering. I change oils in my truck myself as well but I don't have a garage, so I have to do it a parking lot. I usually try to change engine oil before winters and summers but one time I had to put unusually more miles on my truck and I had to change oil out in January. Dealer was first on my list to do it for me. I bought oil and filter myself and had local dealer change them out for me. Many folks will go to a dealer first before somewhere else, so I think such promotion is an excellent opportunity for them to take advantage of.

Lmao......I change my oil once a year.Not because of mileage either,just not much driving which can be just as bad.Did the same thing on my diesel tractors.Oil change at every 250 hrs of operation,yet I only did about 50 a year.I changed the oil every spring.Old habits I reckon.....

I change my oil every three months or about 3K. I could probably go longer but oil changes are relatively cheap.

Are they having that much trouble selling these trucks?

Always read the fine print. Up to five quarts, mine takes seven. Synthetic extra. I prefer to do my own oil changes. 5-30 mobil one fram extra guard and most of all the filter is not screwed on to tight. Don't need some grease monkey scratching my paint.
The last time my wife's car was serviced the mechanic went for a test drive and wrecked the car. Sure they paid for it but we did not have her car and had to wait for it to get fixed. To me it's more trouble then it's worth.

While I understand the concerns about dealership oil changes, people should understand that:

1. The vast majority of vehicle owners don't change their own oil, so points about the advantages of DIY oil changes aren't relevant 98% of the time.

2. Dealerships, as a general rule, do a *MUCH* better job than your run-of-the-mill Jiffy Lube, Midas, etc.

The reason? We hire better lube techs! If you want to become a master tech at most dealerships, you have to either a) have a few years experience or b) be willing to work your way up.

So, when we hire a lube-tech, we're hiring someone who wants to advance beyond doing LOFs all day. He or she is usually a votech school grad, has some genuine interest and talent, and is ambitious.

While Midas and Jiffy Lube *might* be able to hire the same type of guys to do their LOF work, they usually don't pay as much as dealers, and they can't offer the same kind of career opportunities dealers do.

SO, to make a long story short, if you're a smart young man or woman eager to become a well-paid auto technician, you work at a dealership. Period.

Dealership oil changes are better, and this is an awesome add-on that I fully expect to become a standard feature for all GM buyers at some point.

Well said Gib.

@hemi lol: No $#!t, no more 10w 30, like I said bozo, I change my own oil. 5 W 20.

Some of the things I work on have a 30 minute wait for the sake of checking oil, and yeah, that aint 10 w 30, it's modern synthetic.

Your quick to write something here cause Toyota does the same, lol, WHAT IF IT IS INCONVEINEINT TO GET THE TRUCK TO THE DEALER?

Yeah, you would come down more if this cost wasn't there.
I also get the satisfaction of getting the fluid to the proper level, I also have seen techs in various dealerships over/underfill.

So, mr know it all, how long does it take to drain? I bet I can get an extra 1/4 quart to half quart by letting it drain, and that also depends on engine size. Hard to get a more then an extra quarter of a quart on my ladies Nissan that uses less then 4 qaurts, but now a v-8 that uses 7-8 quarts?

Did I say anything about WHAT THE DEALER PAYS?

It's great if you can't fit under the vehicle, or are disabled.

@Sandman: If you don't buy something because you don't like what you read here, then you loose out.

Just because hemi lol sees only the good in anything Toyota does, and never says much good of anything else, does that mean I would rule out a Tundra? No.

It's called OPINION. You got one. I have one. hemi lol has one, even though it it is Toyota centered....lol

Are you too much of a softie?

I would rather err on the side of caution. As the ad use to say "You can pay me now or you can pay me later. I once worked with an oil man in Houston years ago that had 300k on a 75 Cadillac Sedan De Ville that looked and ran like new. He had mostly highway miles and he was meticulous about maintenanc. He told me he once had a 1956 Cadillac Fleetwood that he ran almost 500k miles with just a valve job. He finally got rid of it because he wanted something newer.

@HemiV8--My brother over 30 years ago had a 1982 Buick Skylark with a 4 cylinder 4 speed manual that he used only Mobile 1. He drove it in his business and then gave it to his older daughter in college and then let someone who was working for him use it. At over 300k highway miles the electrics and some other things were going but the motor was still strong. My brother got rid of it at that point. The body held up because my brother lived in Texas. My brother swears by Mobile 1.

We should all agree to ban the word "fanbois," especially with the i.

Free stuff is never a bad thing, but I'd rather do it myself. It's more of a hassle to take it to the dealer, but if they want to throw some cases or filters and oil in the back as I'm signing the docs in F&I, I won't complain. Saves all of us some trouble. Just as long as I can still get up to 10 or $12,000 off MSRP, depending on the model.

the reason oil drains faster now days is because of the motor design more than the oil. hemis drain unbilevably fast. i thought my first hemi had only 3 quarts in it lol! but it has a less complex oiling system over my old 5.9 magnum which was complex and drained longer before dripping. 5w-30 is the same as 10w-30 except 5w-30 is thinner when it is cold, allowing for better oil circulation. do any of you even know what those numbers and letter mean? w means winter, not weight. 5w means the oil's viscosity in winter. 30 means the oil's viscosity for a fully warmed engine (usually about 190 to 210 degrees). the properties of oil are inverse because when it is cold things get thick and when it is hot things break down and get thin. so you want your oil as thin as possible in the cold and as thick as possible in the heat (within the owner's manual's guide lines). some people run 10w-30 when their vehicle requires 5w-30. why? i don't understand (really they don't). 5w-30 is thinner when it is cold, but when they both heat up they are 30 "weight". simply put, you want the oil with the most flexibility. so what would be the ultimate oil? 0w-50 (full synthetic), but they don't make it. the closest to it would be 0w-40 or 5w-50. consider the numbers boundaries. you don't want to step outside the boundaries of the two numbers but if you don't touch them you won't get full potential either. example, you have a gm truck that requires 5w-30. if you use 5w-20 it won't hurt you motor but in extreme heat you are losing protection. if you use 10w-30 you won't hurt your motor but you will lose protection in extreme cold because the oil isn't circulating as much as it could. if you step outside the boundaries in example, using 0w-40 in a 5w-30 motor, your oil will be too thin on startup and too thick fully warmed possibly resutling in improper lubrication or wearing of seals as well has less mpgs. the best way to tell you guys is that the numbers are temperature ranges. your motor is designed around a certain temperature range by engineers taking into consideration all of the factors for all around drivablity. so your oil is designated to your motor by your temperature range (operating temperature range).

@Johnny doe: If Ram offered it it would not make a differance to me. I would rather get something else out of it.

My X wife and I bought her Jeep 75 miles away, great, a free oil change, so we would have to plan on being there Mon thru Friday for that freebie. Hard to do, isn't it? What, take time off from her work so she can get a freebie?

Here's something else to think about. What if you don't want their base oil? They jack the price up if you want synthetic. Lots more, and I can go buy it in 5 qts alot cheaper.

I had that SRT-4 which the front spoiler made it a pain to get under. They gave me a free oil change where I bought it. Great, I get to drive 40 miles for it, so I can sit around (they want you to see what other cars they are selling, and accessories) and wait. Then, they say "oh no, that free oil change doesn't include synthetic" Ok, well, I don't want non synthetic in a turbo engine, it left the factory with Mobil One, that's what it gets. So, I took a loss, cause I had to buy my own. I shoulda givin them a container and said "here, can you give me the same amount oil my car would use in 10-30 (if priced the same) and I will use it in one of my older rides" I have done it since.

I do agree some folks don't have the place to do it, the tools, or they physically can't do it.

My bro in law never changes his own.

Atleast I KNOW my oil filter isn't on too loose, like the girl I worked with that had a new Subaru that had oil change #1 at some quickie place, and heres was not tight enough. Good thing her dad noticed the oil on the driveway the day after. Yeah, that happens at dealers as well. Her nearest dealer is over 50 miles way.

despite what old timer's say synthetic is the best oil period. really now days, all oil that is recommended for automobiles has somewhat synthetic properties to it because all API certified oil has detergents. IMHO, either go with the cheapest oil or the best (synthetic) because all that other crap is hype and a waste of time. why would you want to protect you motor a little bit or just a little bit better? or in between? go with cheap or go with the best. example, pennzoil conventional, pennzoil high mileage, pennzoil synthetic blend, pennzoil full synthetic, and pennzoil advanced full synthetic. pennzoil conventional is the most basic cheapest lubrication that you vehicle can take meeting guidelines. pennzoil high mileage is pennzoil conventional with leak conditioners. why is high mileage a waste of time? they recommend you use high mileage 75,000 miles on. so you pay $4.50 a quart and then go to $5.50 a quart and you think you are using the minimum and you are paying more. is it worth it? no! because of the precision of engineering now days high mileage is a waste of time. futhermore on a bottle of high mileage (castrol for example) it says high mileage is a synthetic blend. you might as well buy the oil that protects more for the same price. i've said it before, if high mileage is a bandaid, advanced full synthetic is body armour. advanced full synthetic costs $9.00 a quart roughly and regular oil is $4.50 a quart. if you use synthetic and go 6,000 miles (and 3,000 for conventional) you are at the same except you only had to change the oil ONCE. but most synthetics are rated for 7,500 to 25,000 miles depending on synthetic or advanced synthetic and which name brand and what filter you use. synthetic blend is just half and half and full synethic costs nearly as much as advanced so like i said the best or the rest. hm, sb, and fs are a waste of time. just go with conventional or advanced full synthetic. i have put 6,000 hard miles on castrol edge t.f.s. in the gold bottle when it first came out (it is rated for 12,000 miles with a bosch distance plus) and the oil was clean, i mean it looked new. so don't doubt synthetic. it saves money in the long run. and all synthetic really is is a highly purified oil that is so pure that when they add additives and detergents it has less of a percentage of fossil fuels. in synthetic, all of the molecules are the same size, vs. being irregular sizes and and the molecules are smaller to allow for more equal and liberal lubrication inside the motor. synthetic coates the interior of your motor and sticks to it. long after you turn your motor off and walk in your house with synthetic that coating is still on your internals. so why do you think it is better in stop and go? better in extreme weather? lasts longer? and is the true "high mileage" oil? currently i use royal purple and k&n but that is just me. second choice is what chrysler recommends mopar m0-090 and pennzoil (synthetic or not). i have a 2004 ram 1500 with a hemi (sixth truck, 5th dodge/ram, third hemi) and i can tell you i notice a difference over conventional. the "hemi tick" has quietened and there is no dry start sound that is normally associated with lesser oils.

consider 2 onions the same size and weight. take one and chop, dice. take the other chop, dice, mince. put them in 2 separate exact containers. same weight, same amount of matter. but which one has more uniform molecules/particles? which one can be fitted into or around any shape better? the minced onion can be digested easier because each molecule is smaller but you have the same amount of onion so you get the same nutrition. it is the same way with oil. synthetic has more molecules than conventional per bottle because the larger molecules have already been preboke down and then compacted with more molecules so you are paying for more molecules per bottle. same size bottle, same weight. but which one has more uniform molecules/particles? which one can be fitted into or around any shape better? which one can get into the smallest areas preventing hot spots and heat soak better?

"GM Offers Scheduled Maintenance for Silverado, Too"

That's a good headline Mark.


I look forward to the future headlines from GM. Such as,

"GM offers awd on the Impala now too"

"GM offers the Denali trim on the Silverado too"

All a little too late to fix the damage they've done to Chevrolet in my book. It's over.

When an engine is designed it is pointless to go beyond the manufacturers specifications. Also, taking your car in to have an oil change is no diffferent to doing one yourself.

All you need to do is use the specified oil no more, no less.

The amount of residual oil in the engine when a dealership does an oil change will have no impact on engine longevity. All you get when doing your own oil change is a warm and fussy feeling, and save a few dollars.

Oil companies are in the game to make money also.

When operating in harsh environments not matter what oil you are using the maintenance intervals are shortened. This is also in maintenance manuals.

Using your owners manual and following manufacturers guidlines should give you years of reliable service from a drivetrain component.

When an engine is designed it is pointless to go beyond the manufacturers specifications. Also, taking your car in to have an oil change is no diffferent to doing one yourself.

All you need to do is use the specified oil no more, no less.

The amount of residual oil in the engine when a dealership does an oil change will have no impact on engine longevity. All you get when doing your own oil change is a warm and fussy feeling, and save a few dollars.

Oil companies are in the game to make money also.

When operating in harsh environments not matter what oil you are using the maintenance intervals are shortened. This is also in maintenance manuals.

Using your owners manual and following manufacturers guidlines should give you years of reliable service from a drivetrain component.

When an engine is designed it is pointless to go beyond the manufacturers specifications. Also, taking your car in to have an oil change is no diffferent to doing one yourself.

All you need to do is use the specified oil no more, no less.

The amount of residual oil in the engine when a dealership does an oil change will have no impact on engine longevity. All you get when doing your own oil change is a warm and fussy feeling, and save a few dollars.

Oil companies are in the game to make money also.

When operating in harsh environments not matter what oil you are using the maintenance intervals are shortened. This is also in maintenance manuals.

Using your owners manual and following manufacturers guidlines should give you years of reliable service from a drivetrain component.

@trx tom

TRUE! i worked at a dealership and had to give someone a free oil change because a coworker did not put the oil filter on tight enough and they asked why it was leaking. so when we put it on the lift we found the oil filter was loose and the coworkers number was on the last work order for it. i used to work at a chrysler, dodge, ram, jeep dealership. i am a big mopar fan and it truely discontented me to realize that most of the people that worked there knew nothing about mopars (modern or classic!). part of the reason i left, not wanting a bad reputation like the rest. the stupid woman that worked in parts would always give me the wrong oil to put in cars and then argue with me like idk how to read a damn oil cap! her friend she hired to help run parts was a jackass that would help a customer that just walked in that was wanting a tonneau cover instead of filling out my order for a customer that had been waiting for 45 minutes! and i was at the counter first! one of the guys supposedly fixed my truck prior to me working their when my exhaust manifold studs/bolts broke on my driver side manifold and the manifold was leaking (yup, its gotta hemi!:)). he obviously didn't tighten the bolts down in the spiral pattern that alldata recommends because it was still leaking like it had no gasket or something so i crawled under there and sure enough i had to tighten them myself ( i really should have just fixed it myself and saved the $850 it cost to fix it and just invest in some nice ceramic coated headers :)). take it from someone who worked at a dealership, at a dealership since they need help so much and asc certified help is harder and harder to find, (this modern lifestyle of people less enthused with automobiles) has caused dealerships to hire people that know nothing as general service techs and then send them to an automotive course/school as an apprenticeship. then they get their certification. but the problem is most of these people know nothing about automobiles and get the job to pay bills not as a passion. so everyone consider the only reason to go to a dealership the warranty they give!

"the reason GM included Chevy in the promotion was because of the campaign's success with the Sierra 1500; the company received great feedback from buyers and dealerships."


That reasoning is a sham and everyone knows it. Why wouldn't GM just include it for both trucks in the first place? Did the guy who paid 35k for his truck at the Chevrolet dealer not deserve as much as the guy who paid 35k for his truck at the Gmc dealer? The whole concept of post 70's GM is so archaic. It's not like GM is a company who owns a bunch of different legitimate companies any longer. It's all just one platform with slightly cosmetic changes and badge engineering these days. Chevy guys keep getting screwed by this company. I don't get their loyalty. Why not just buy Ford's or Toyota's? One real company.

It sounds like Chevrolet dealers are getting mighty ticked off at GM behind the scenes from what I gather from people in the know. Then GM attempts to keep them hush with the Corvette. The problem is, that's a low volume car for a large overhead business. I'd venture to say GM will be gone in 10 years and Chevrolet along with it the way things are headed. It's sad too. I was a Chevy guy way back when. They had some of the best looking and best built cars and trucks in the business. I really think Chevrolet was the sacrifical lamb to keep the rest of GM alive. The lamb is about out of blood and ready to die. On life support from the looks of it. Sales are in the toilet without massive incentives. GM has about sucked the Chevy well dry.

@big al from oz
definitley the best way to go. and i would ad that make sure your oil at least MEETS requirements of the manufacturer and exceeds would be better. pennzoil conventional meets chrysler ms-6395 (please someone give me the exact definition by chrysler as to what this means) while pennzoil ultra class synthetic EXCEEDS requirements. the reason i keep using pennzoil as an example is because chrysler did a survey not long after merging with fiat and found that pennzoil is america's most trusted brand. no chrysler uses pennzoil at the dealerships (i know i used to work at one) and pennzoil ultra class for srt cars 0w-40 (6.1 hemi) and 5w-40 (6.4 hemi). in the daimler years when the 6.1 cars came out mobil 1 was on the oil cap, i know. on a 6.4 it just says synthetic 5w-40. maybe another or real reason chrysler uses pennzoil since the fiat merger; fiat, fiat industrial/professional, lancia, alfa romeo, maserati, and ferrari are one company. chrysler, dodge, ram, jeep, srt, mopar was bought out by them. what is on ferrari f1 cars as a major sponsor? Shell. SOPUS or shell oil products united states, includes shell, pennzoil, quaker state, rainx, and jiffy lube (ever wonder why pennzoil is only 10 cents more than quaker state at walmart, lol). i know quaker state has a bad reputation, but now days all oils have to meet a requirement to put the manufacturer on the back and the api as well so quaker state has had to conform to modern guidlines. and shell is decent so i think they had some influence as well. but isn't it mysterious chrysler took fondness of pennzoil when advertised ultra class as for ferrari in magazines and shell sponsers ferrari and fiat owns ferrari and chrysler. and pennzoil is giving away challenger srts in contests now? just for the record i am royal purple and K&N even though i drive a mopar.

and i definitly change my own oil!

"GM Offers Scheduled Maintenance for Silverado, Too"

That's a good headline Mark.


I look forward to the future headlines from GM. Such as,

"GM offers awd on the Impala now too"

"GM offers the Denali trim on the Silverado too"

All a little too late to fix the damage they've done to Chevrolet in my book. It's over.

- I completely agree with this. I recall reading about the free oil changes here a month or two ago for the GM truck's and not the Chevy's. I never did understand why. It's nice to see the Chevy guys get a break after I've watched these idiots stand behind GM the last few years. It seems like there's quite a bit of love that's been lost between the Chevrolet faithful and GM over the last decade though. And in recent years, it's only gotten worse. This whole stunt seems like a ploy to get the Chevy dealers and owners to hush up and attempt to get Chevrolet guys in their corner again. I don't really think it will do much myself. Ford and Dodge offer so much more then Chevrolet these days. I never got why Chevrolet didn't get the Denali trim either. Even way back when it came out I was waiting to see the Chevrolet version and nothing.. Yet Ford had the King Ranch and just kept them coming. Plus Ford's never got ugly like the Chevy's did in 03 and forward. GM has shot themselves in the foot I think. One too many times to stand. And Dodge continues to gain ground on Chevrolet sales. It's pretty sad really when you remember what Chevy used to be before GM wrecked em.

and i definitly change my own oil!


- So do I Josh. Either Valvoline or Mobil. Lot's of guys-girls don't have the time for things like that these days though.

This is why I drive Toyota, I never changed my oil or checked it as Toyota you dont need frequent oil checks or changes once every 1 or so years is all you need to change your oil and I wait until it runs below the add mark then put fresh clean oil change oil in it every 1 year or 10,000 miles its usually empty.I have 11,000 miles on my 2011 Toyota and I will never need to change the oil or check it every 3 months lol like an unrealiable American vehicle that need oil and oil changes all the time and leak it out.I got 70,000 on my last Toyota before the engine started to burn oil and I see American trucks burning black smoke all the time.

@Josh: I'm a fan of "if it has a torque spec, I use it". That's even gotten me into arguements with coworkers. Sometimes I have heard "well, it aint like it is flying" at one place. Lol, so it's ok if it comes appart on the ground?? WT? You can't go wrong if you use the torque specs, provided the torque spec is proper. ie, early Neons had not enough thread on the headbolts, so they gave the reading that the bolt was tight, but the gaskit wasn't compressed as well as it shoulda been.

But not all, I have a co worker with over 400,000 miles on a 5 speed Neon. He has barely had to work on it.

The Wal-Mart Super Tech synthetic oil I believe is cheaper then Penzoil. Before this site erupts in laughter, it is a good oil. I know where it comes from, because I have a friend that drives the Wal-Mart truck. That's all I am saying about that. I would use it if it was made in 5W 20.

Penzoil used to be nasty.

Oh wow, GM steps up and does what they should have done in the first place.

I look forward to the future headlines from GM. Such as,

"GM offers awd on the Impala now too"

"GM offers the Denali trim on the Silverado too"

@Mark, GM doesn't care about American Chevrolet's. They just want to pawn the cheap ones in third world countries to people who don't know any better and think 50's-60's Americana when they hear Chevrolet. In literal America however Chevrolet is all but dead. GM has sacrificed the Bowtie no doubt to profit and further other brands. They have been doing that for a good 20 years. Especially the last decade or so since the Bush 2 era began that I recall.


I think their core focus these days is Chinese Buick's and saving Opel over in Europe. Both of which revolve around keepinge Buick-GM truck dealers alive in the U.S.. Chevrolet dealers by default are Effed. Others are right. Chevrolet is the sacrificial lamb to keep GM moving in the rest of the world. GM should have just left America in the 1990's and left Chevrolet here.

@josh
It's pointless using an oil that exceeds the manufacturers specification. You are wasting money as their is no real gain, just like using a higher octane fuel when not necessary. I'm not saying not to use it but it's a waste.

There are many myths surrounding lubricants. Just because you pay more doesn't mean the product is performing any better in a given environment. That product will perform better when you exceed the designed parameter of whatever is being lubricated.

This does occur, ie, motor racing or very extreme conditions, hence race teams don't run "normal" specified oil. The advertising using a race team is true, but yet false. You will not gain the benefits that the race team does.

Extreme heat cause oil (mineral) to crack, a similar event that occurs when refining oils. Synthetics don't have those properties.

@TRX4 tom, it is a good oil. I know who makes it and to what specs. Unlike let's say, WalMart Goodyear tires. That's a higher dollar product however. The oil is superb.


@MarkH, I agree. Chevrolet gets screwed on all fronts with both trucks and cars as part of GM. I do like the Vette and Camaro. That's about all they have that's any good anymore.

@Big Al: so you make it sound like dirty or old oil has no affect on oil life?
If I have 1 part dirty oil, and 13 parts (7 qts, system) one pint dirty, and 13 pints new, it has no effect? At some point it would. If I had 5 qts new oil and 2 old, it wouldn't have any effect???

Some folks like the extended mileage oil, but that wont be great for everybody. Drive on a dirt road, or run in extreme cold or hot, it has an effect on it. Do alot of stop and go driving, or start, drive few miles, not enough to warm oil, and shut it off, and start it 30 minutes or an hour later after talking to a client, that's not so good.

@hemi lol: what is the oil change interval for a 5.7 Tundra?

@Brody --It is not just mileage that determines when you change your oil. My brother's Buick would get 10k in a couple of months but that was mostly highway driving at high steady speeds. If you are not driving much and drive in stop and go traffic you need to change oil more often. An engine is an engine regardless if it is a Toyota or a Chevy. The trucks you see burning oil are probably burning oil because they have been neglected. A car or truck is a machine that needs regular maintenance if you want long and reliable service.


@Big Al from Oz--I agree as long as you meet the specifications for oil it doesn't matter what brand. My brother used Mobil 1 to avoid having to change oil as often but he putting most highway miles. The landman I worked for used regular oil but changed oil often and most of the miles were highway miles. It is much better to have a high mileage vehicle properly maintained with mostly highway miles than a vehicle with low mileage in mostly stop and go traffic and not regularily maintained. Most of today's vehicles can easily go 200k or more with proper maintenance.

@TRX4 Tom
If you understand oil like gearing then you will have a problem.

If you want I'll describe to you how oils work and the differences between them:)

Remember you stated you race cars, you must understand the terms lubricity and viscosity. Or have a basic understanding of the oil system in an engine?

Oh, by the way what does the filter do?

Think about the oil system and what is the primary function of oil?

What is lubricity? or What is viscosity? What is cooling? What is hydraulics?

Oil in an engine is used to cool, lubricate and in some cases support hydraulics. That's all.

It only has to achieve that. Filters remove contaminants and the residual oil quantities you described will not affect the overall performance of a modern oil.

Start reading about the performance of most modern oils and you will realise that the time between recommended manufacturers servicings and what the oil manufacturer states it's product can achieve is quite significant. Oil will last up to double the life that the vehicle manufacturers specify for their servicing intervals.

In the transport industry, oil is recycled by filtering and returning the product back into the engines. This is on engines that will last over 500 000 miles.

@Brody: seriously? You are asking for it if you barely check your oil. One year? Depends on your use, one year in some of the conditions I wrote about, you are just asking for it.

I know Dodge (and many others) was big on the 3,000 miles before. Which if a person does alot of interstate driving, it is a waste.

But if you only got 70,000 miles before you started burning oil, that should be a clue for you.

I will say my 193,000 mile Camry doesn't leak out the pan. It did the valve cover, but hey it's had some miles! What it does do is puff some upon a cold start, so valve guides I reckon? Not worth taking it appart for as little as it uses it.

@Big Al: comming from somebody like you that's doesn't get gearing, no thanks, I don't need an oil 101 class.

I think your idea of a gear is in it's most basic use, and you have no idea about ratios on trucks that you don't drive.

But because you get to work on a plane, you think you know it all.

Do any of the planes you work on actually fly? Or are they all red X'd?

@TRX4 Tom
Engines/mechanical components have what is termed "run in " phase, "normal wear" phase and "failure" phase.

This has nothing to do with lubrication. It's a natural "life cycle" of every mechanical component.

You can actually measure this wear by performing spectro-analysis of the oils (burning the oil). This can also tell what components are wearing within an engine/hydraulic/powertrain. Also measuring using magnetics the use of magnetic chip detector are also used with ferrous metals.

This testing is used during the prototype testing of vehicles (drivetrain).

Red X'd?? Do civilians (general aviation) use that?

@Kent: I did buy Good Years at Wal-Mart, actually I was looking for affordable tires for my Camry. And I just was wanting the cheapest tires, cause I bought it with 3 or 4 bad ones.

If it was built for performance, I would not have gone there.

But they priced me cheaper tires, and I brought it there. Then they called me back to say they didn't have all four, that they would give me four Good Year Viva 2s for the cheaper tire price. So they did better then the tire place down the road that went ahead and stuck on more expensive tires on my Xs car when I was out of town. After they said they had the others.

They took forever doing it (once again, to get you to look around)

Speaking of tires and Chevys, I just found a receipt I paid for a flat repair on my 2006. Drove it about 25,000 miles, one flat.

Current truck: 40,000 miles. No flats. That's the good thing about my LT275 tires, vs those base Goodyear STs or whatever. A heavier tire that gets less mileage, but less trips for flats.

And for anybody that takes that as an anti GM thing, well, GMs can bennifit as well. They actually get the same tire type, with one less ply. Which is what the new Rams are using (no more 275LTs.)

I'm confused that one member is complaining about GM offering to cover 2 years of scheduled maintenance, especially when he (the member/user here) announces that he owns a vehicle from a manufacturer that also offers to cover scheduled maintenance too.

How come there are always those that automatically look for bad things from something that is actually a good thing?

Yeah, checked a few chip detectors.

@brody. It was burning oil at "only" 70,000 miles? I expect any good engine that has been properly maintained to last at least 200,000 to 300,000 miles. If you're burning oil at 70,000 miles that is bad news.



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