Quick Install: Cold Air Intake Kit

Lead GMC dyno II

By Cole Quinnell

(Editor's note: We're trying something new here by offering a few quick-install stories that could help your pickup with better performance, fuel economy, style, or all of the above. And they can be done right in your driveway. Let us know what you think or pass along some of your own quick-fixes, problem-solvers or pickup improvements that worked for you and your rig.) 

The two things that most of us wish for in our pickup trucks is more power and better fuel economy. We recently ran across a cold air intake kit that can be installed in less than 30 minutes and promises to deliver both without voiding the warranty or triggering a check engine light. We used the intake system from Cold Air Induction, which costs just less than $400 if you do the install yourself. There are other companies that offer similar products, so if you're interested we suggest you do additional research for applications that fit your truck and price range.

Air intake upgrades are nothing new, but a few things about the Cold Air Inductions system intrigued us. In addition to increasing airflow to the engine by reducing restrictions in the air box, air filter and air tube, the system features thermal barriers to keep under-hood heat from increasing the temperature of the air entering the engine. Cooler air is denser, so it delivers more air to the engine enabling the engine to make more power. Additionally, the air box and air tube are made from high-grade aluminum to save weight. The kit even includes a window into the filter so you can visually inspect the filter at any time. As a result, the air cleaner can be cleaned and oiled as needed for longer life.

We broke out a few hand tools and a stopwatch to see how long it would take to install the kit on a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 Z71 with the 6.2-liter V-8. This kit is the same set-up for a Chevrolet Silverado with the same engine.

Here's how easy it was to install.

Cars.com photos by Cole Quinnell

 

01 II

The kit we used also fits a 2014-2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 and GMC Sierra 1500 with the 6.2-liter V-8. Kits also are available for the 5.3-liter V-8 as well as many older GM pickups and SUVs. We chose a system finished in textured-black powder coat, but the company also offers a near-chrome powder coat.

 

03 II

The first steps are to remove the fender brace and disconnect the battery. Next, remove the T15 Torx screws that hold the mass air flow sensor in the factory air tube. Do not remove the electrical connector from the sensor — doing so will trip a check engine light when you reconnect the battery and start the truck. Leave the harness connected and move the MAF sensor away from the air intake.

 

04 II

There are two positive crankcase ventilation tubes; one on each side of the factory air box connecting to each valve cover. Push down on the locking sleeve at the valve cover to release these hoses. Then loosen the large hose clamps that connect the air box to the throttle body and the air tube to the air box.

 

05 II

There is a wiring loom attached to the rear corner of the air box; remove this. The air box is mounted with a rubber-stubs stud pushed into a hole in the inner fender well. Hold the air box firmly, wiggle it back and forth and lift up to remove it.

 

06 II

Remove the rubber mount from the factory air box and install it in the bottom of the Cold Air Inductions air box. You may need to gently use a flat-blade screwdriver to insert it, but be careful not to damage the mount. In this photo you can see the heat-barrier material that lines the Cold Air Inductions air box.

 

08 II

You'll need to temporarily remove the windshield-washer reservoir before you can install the new air box. Use a 10-millimeter socket to loosen the mounting bracket. Leave the hoses connected and simply set the reservoir on top of the engine. Set the Cold Air Inductions air box in place and firmly push down. You may have to rock the box side to side while pushing down to get all of the mounts to seat completely.

 

09 II

Next install the silicon elbow coupler supplied with the new system to the factory throttle body, and connect the new PCV hoses to each valve cover. Position the new hose clamps so they will be easy to tighten once all of the components are in place.

 

11 II

Insert the new air tube through the air box and slide the Cold Air Inductions pre-oiled air filter onto the end. Rotate the air filter so that the metal pleat clamp (a strip of metal that runs the length of the air filter) is facing down in the air box. Install the air tube in the silicone elbow at the throttle body. Once you have all of the pieces aligned properly, tighten the large hose clamp at the throttle body, silicone elbow and air filter.

 

13 II

Using the 0.5-millimeter Allen head bolts supplied in the kit, install the MAF sensor in the new air tube. You may need to adjust the inner sleeve of the air tube to align the holes properly. Then the air-box lid installs with spring-loaded quarter-turn screws that are captured in the lid. This makes removing the lid for service quick and easy, and you don't have to worry about losing the fasteners.

 

14 II

Reconnect the battery and install the fender brace. The finished system looks great and performs even better. We completed the install in less than 30 minutes.

 

15 II

There are a few proof points when it comes to power. For dyno testing, we used a rear-wheel dyno to measure the power improvement at the rear wheels. We found a gain in horsepower and torque over the entire rpm band tested, and a peak difference of 12 pounds-feet of torque and 6 hp. While driving our GMC the throttle response seemed improved, and we noticed a throatier sound when romping on the throttle. Under normal driving conditions we saw a fuel-economy improvement more than 2 mpg, which is an almost 15 percent improvement in combined highway and city driving.

 

Comments

These are actually proven to decrease fuel economy. The oil-wett filters are also notorious for gumming up the mass air flow sensors, thus causing the check engine light to come on.

I Agree with kemo. Useless mod. $400 for problems.

Is this advertising?

Kemo, please post links to your statements. I do know back in the 1980's they would increase HP and decrease gas mileage. But they are designed better now. Also I run K&N wet filters on all my vehicles since the 1980's and have not had any issues with the mass air flow sensor....need links to prove your statements

I had installed different cold-air induction kits into both my 1996 Dodge Ram and my 2007 Jeep Wrangler, years ago (as well as free-flow exhausts systems).

My findings have been that, in the long term, you can get either more HP or better fuel economy, but rarely both. The big gain for me has been more HP/torque that comes in at lower RPM, making both vehicles more "drivable". Downside? Well, at -10 deg F in WI, the cold air can be too much, and the ECU doesn't quite know how to set the furl/air mixture, so you may get some "hesitation" initially. You may have to be patient until things warm up after driving a bit.

There is a reason why car makers don't put these in directly from the factory, and it isn't only cost that is the concern: they work well under ideal conditions, but may not handle the wide variety of driving condition all that well. Vehicle manufacturers have engineers too, and they design intake and air/fuel delivery systems to be "universal", --- meant for almost all conditions (^_^)...

==============

The 90s called. They want their CAI back.

This is great if you want to suck more dirt into your engine. As proven by oil analysis results showing increased silicon. Don't believe them when they say it filters the air just as well. Increased air flow is going to allow more dust to pass through. Which results in decreased engine life. This is especially a problem in dusty southern Idaho. If you have a large amount of room under the hood you could custom install a super large tractor-style air filter that will increase air flow while improving filtration. The only way to do it is with a larger air filter. But really probably isn't worth it if all you're after is more power.

I find the combination of these results to be rather amazing -- (read TOO amazing). (Though as the owner of the "induction magnets" in the '60s promising 100MPG, I am willing to believe with more proof. By the way, the induction magnets did not work:)

I find it unbelievable that a car manufacturer would purposely miss this obvious chance to get more power and better MPG. They are usually looking for a 0.2 MPG improvement and would be ecstatic to get 2 MPG -- and on a HUGE engine. There needs to be a trade-off that the manufacturer could not accept that is not taken into account in this report. I would guess emissions, but it could be combination of things including longevity of things like catalytic converters eating that excess unburned gas.

I understand more power. The cooler air is more dense (more of it in the same space). Remember, through the fuel/air mixture attempts to stay constant in modern fuel injected feedback loop engines, so it also means more gas. However, colder air also means bigger gas droplets, which do not burn as completely as smaller droplets, which means more unburned wasted gas, so I do not understand the better gas mileage, In addition I would like to know if the emissions changed and the long term effect on things like catalytic converters not to mention failing emissions testing now or at least sooner in its lifetime then expected.

Hey, I used all sorts of things to get cold air into my engines over the years, and it worked to make more power, but I NEVER got better mileage. But then again, they were all carburetor cars without the sophisticated computer controlled feedback loops of today's engines -- and more power meant bigger smiles per throttle position, so my mileage observations may also be tainted.

In conclusion, I still do not believe the 2MPG increase, but I am willing to read more proof with real world testing (a lot more than "Hey, we improved 2MPG"), and hopefully some more complete science behind it. Otherwise, this sounds like another "induction magnet" advertisement.

We agree that the value for a product like this will largely depend on where and how you use your pickup, but in our experience we've found the theory to be quite sound: better breathing on the intake side, and a freer-flowing exhaust will help your performance. As to the question of advertising, PUTC does not accept advertising beyond the rotating OE banners.

I have also installed these on every vehicle I have ever owned, and they do work! The most I ever gained on any vehicle was the 2014 Charger R/T AWD, I gained about 4 mpg hyw, and 5 cty, and the throttle response was great!

Wow, 2 mpg improvement. What a joke. I love the people that claim mpg improvement with a high flow air filter. HP and TQ yes, MPG, no. It is impossible once the PCM calculates proper A/F ratio.

The first argument is easy. If this mythical mpg thing is true, every car would have one from the factory. Manufactures spend hundreds of thousands of dollars to gain small fractions of mpg. If you can do it with an air filter they would.

2nd is that stock air filter allowed that engine to make a lot of HP and tq. When driving down the road you need a small fraction of that that. The throttle blades are open around 20%. So full airflow into that massive throttle body is minimal. The factory airfilter is just fine for combined driving. The O2 sensors are in place for the PCM to determine A/F ratio. It is programed to achieve the calibration ratio. IT WILL increase or decrease fuel to match air. If you have more air going in, you match that with fuel. If you have more going in, you burn more fuel and make more power and go faster.

Yes these filters make more power but better FE is nothing but snake oil advertising.

Stupid.
The long term air:fuel ratio 'trims' will return to normal within a week, and then there will be no gain in power.
The OEM air filter can flow more than enough CLEAN cool air. So long as you change it every 2 years or so.
Now you have a dirty air intake system.
Enjoy you now shortened oil change interval.

2MPG improvement..BS. if a $400 retail part gave that benefit every manufacturer would be installing it yesterday.

Why have MDS, multiple speed transmissions,weight savings,VVT, aerodynamics,lower vehicles,mileage tires... geez thousands and thousands in research and investment to gain little pieces of improvement.

But they missed an Air cleaner....

PUTC is not advertising but Cole Quinnell is advertising this setup on.....

http://www.coldairinductions.com/press/camaro6-cold-air-intake-from-cold-air-inductions/

Continuing the company’s leadership in performance cold-air intake systems for Camaros and GM trucks, Cold Air Inductions is proud to announce the first system available for the 2016 Chevrolet Camaro with the LT1 V-8."

He is writing it in the first person like he is part of the company. In the least he is writing the press releases for the company...

http://www.coldairinductions.com/press

So this article on PUTC is not an unbiased source.

There is NO standard, NO law, NO Rules how big of a micron opening an air filter has!
The stock air filter and air filter box design was designed to keep dirt from entering the engine resulting in shortening the life of the engine.
A dirty air filter does a better job of keeping out dirt entering the intake of the engine.
The secret of these aftermarket cold air intakes is the larger micron opening of the air filter so you'll get the same results if you removed your stock air filter completely.
Oil filters are different, there is a set standard that all are made to at least 25 microns, but there is NO set standard on air filters!
Then when you do change an air filter you disturb the seal and it doesn't take much for that engine to suck in dirt from a weak connection bypassing the air filter cause you won't notice any difference in sound or performance cause the ecu will compensate, Hell! you can pull all the vacuum lines off and it will suck air there and you won't notice any engine problems cause the ecu compensates for it.
you guys are stupid enough to believe anything anybody says, maybe I should sell rocks by claiming if you fasten this rock to the top of your battery it will keep the battery charged and I bet I can get rich selling millions of them!

As LMAO and others pointed out, the manufacturers have been wrestling with getting better HP and FE since the day of Henry Ford.

Since the 1960s, their efforts have been heavily complicated by the environmentalists and in more recent years the EPA, who were trying to reduce vehicle emissions.

In short--there's no free lunch, esp. when it comes to the stuff that can be accomplished with air filters and exhaust systems.

Sounds like these cold air intakes ( note : the factory set-up is cold air intake) are able to smooth and allow for more are into the engine when demanded. But don't expect better fuel economy when the engine is flowing that extra air through it. Extra air requires extra fuel or the engine runs lean. The O2 sensors will assure you use extral fuel to keep the 14.7 :1 ratio in place.

I also call BS on the thermal barrier stated in the article. Look at the stock GM intake system. It is all plastic or rubber tube. Plastic and rubber is one of the best insulators you can use under the hood. Yes it does get warm but nothing like a metal box like what they are installing. I only assume that the GM truck is similar to Ford trucks where they pull air in through the fender opening or just behind the head light. This is the coolest and safest area to pull air. This system looks to be pulling air around the radiator to the fender. If anyone ever monitored IAT when driving they will notice that factory systems do a great job at keeping the heat out. These are performance systems only.

Sounds like these cold air intakes ( note : the factory set-up is cold air intake) are able to smooth and allow for more are into the engine when demanded. But don't expect better fuel economy when the engine is flowing that extra air through it. Extra air requires extra fuel or the engine runs lean. The O2 sensors will assure you use extral fuel to keep the 14.7 :1 ratio in place.


Posted by: GMSRGREAT | Apr 16, 2016 3:03:28 PM

Agreed. I firmly believe the factory systems are the best for keeping the intake air cooler. They use full plastic filter boxes and pull air from a non heated up area. Usually the factory systems can be a little restrictive in the air inlet area but you increase this size you can gain some more HP. The OEMs may do this for intake noise reduction.

@ LMAO : high five!

The long term air:fuel ratio 'trims' will return to normal within a week, and then there will be no gain in power.

Posted by: George_C | Apr 16, 2016 12:24:02 PM

Nailed it!

The long term air:fuel ratio 'trims' will return to normal within a week, and then there will be no gain in power.

Posted by: George_C | Apr 16, 2016 12:24:02 PM

Actually, under normal driving, non demanding loads the fuel trim will return to normal. However, when WOT is demanded, the additional air flow will temporarily allow the engine to run slightly lean. The additional airflow and leaner fuel mixture contributes to increased power. The engine ECU will then attempt to enrich the fuel mixture and in turn negate some of the initial power surge from the lean condition. Moral of this story, any engine air flow improvements ( cold air intake, upgraded exhaust system) should be followed by a ECM custom tune to take advantage of the additional air flow efficiencies and prevent a lean fuel condition.

Haven't posted in a while but good article (for conversation). Pickuptrucks..com finally made an article in which everyone shares knowledge and elaborates on things rather than just say my truck is better crap. That being said, I have a few words of my own to add. I used to believe in cold air intakes until I started to do research. Obviously plastic intakes are better at keeping air temperature down as k&n even shows with their own intakes that on dyno charts. everything is a tradeoff in this world, nothing is for free. If you use your truck like a truck keep it stock. if you want a hot rod truck then get one of these. Keep in mind a couple things. First, people buy these things without downloading installation guides. K&N says no cutting or drilling but I get a Blackhawk (looked nice and sounded nice) and the instructions say I got to cut a pcv/vaccum hose/pipe thing on the truck. Second, you got to keep checking to make sure the bolts don't vibrate loose the first few days. Third, K&N believes that if they sell you a nice looking intake that sounds good and THEY MOVE AIR SPEED SENSOR (RAMS USE THIS INSTEAD OF A MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR) FROM THE THROTTLE BODY TO THE AIR FILTER SIDE OF THE INTAKE THAT THEY HAVE FOOLED YOU INTO BELIEVING YOUR VEHICLE IS FASTER BECAUSE IT IS MORE RESPONSIVE BECAUSE THE AIR SPEED SENSOR HAS A FASTER READING WITH THE SENSOR WIRE EXTENSION. In other words, nowadays performance stuff isn't really for increased performance as much as increased play for enthusiasts. Oh yeah, my gas mileage averaged the same. The key to gas mileage is driving style and automotive service intervals. If you are interested in a cold air intake ask yourself; what am I buying it for, how much of a hassle is it to install, how good is the quality and workmanship of the product, how much is it, is it a dry flow or pre oiled filter, how hard is it to get replacement parts and filters, etc. High flow air filters by K&N is the reason for high capacity oil filters by K&N. Any ram guys why a regular mopar filter requires 7qts while a K&N requires 7 & 1/2 quarts? You got more capacity in that filter for a reason. Now, all that is fine, cause like I said, nothing is free and there is always a tradeoff just like an engine that is either tuned for horsepower or torque. Keep all of this in mind when you look at any performance part on a MODERN automobile especially. Trust me, I traded my ram truck for a challenger and it had aftermarket parts on it that are really a compromise. And once you pop, you can't stop. So if you install this, you are gonna need that until you have completely changed the character, service intervals, service costs, and service exclusitivity. These companies want you to keep buying there parts. In my opinion, I think modifications decrease resale value unless you buy your cars off of craigslist.

Here's also what you'll notice with any non-paper filter....dirty motor oil. Which means more dirty air is entering than engine than with stock paper filter.

Cooler air might make more power but will not increase mpg that much..
Certainly not by 2 mpg..or all the manufacturers would be using this..
To improve hp and mpg too
,todays engineers would do well to look to the past ideas,,namely certain famous mechanic's adiabatic engine that used normaly wasted engine heat from the radiator to preheat incoming fuel/air mixture thus making the fuel burn more completely..
Heres something For you mechanicaly inclined gear heads to ponder,,

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-1009-what-ever-happened-to-smokeys-hot-vapor-engine/

@nlp

true, that is why k&n sells oil filters as well. They know this. i'm not defending or advertising but rather saying that life is a tradeoff and if you are gonna use a high flow filter you might as well use a high CAPACITY oil filter with it. if you change this, you gotta change that until it all works properly. anyone can use their brand of choice. I currently use royal purple oil and filter with my mopar (made by AEM as the Cat back is made by borla not mopar either) CAI. BTW, just to say and get this out in the open, gm and Chrysler use aem and borla as their preferred performance parts suppliers. I ordered a new air filter for my mopar cai and they sent me a red air filter that said gm high performance on it. for some reason aem uses the same damn part number for an air filter for a mopar hemi car as a gm 4 cylinder car.

All the comenters telling us to keep our trucks stock get the $300 dollar oil change at the dealer with the $300 windshield wiper change. Treat the dealer techs like gods.
Mod your trucks people. Get boost and pull harder. Break things, blow up engines. Do burnouts. Get lifts and huge tires. Go mudding. Have fun

@everyone

guys, this is why manufacturers sign petitions stating that it should be illegal to modify your car unless through the dealerships with dealer approved parts. this is also why challenger hellcats for example (enter your favorite modern performance vehicle here) have customizable setups built into the car to discourage people from doing this kind of stuff. like exhausts with butterflies in them that are essentially throttle bodies in the exhaust. or gm and ford (recently on the gt350) with magnetic ride control. if you got a car with all goodies added, and warrantied, and you can alter it at the push of a button would you buy a bunch of aftermarket stuff? just look at all the stuff you gotta do to make a flowmaster cat back work on a hellcat for example. you gotta open up the sensors in the exhaust and change things around. there are videos on youtube by flowmaster of this.

All the kids played together nicely today
I thought for a while I must be on a different site.

@juanfo

for intelligent people out their it's not about worshipping the dealership as much as it is recognizing a tradeoff and deciding which tradeoff you are willing to deal with. some like pay more up front and have ease of mind. some don't care about ease of mind and wanna have fun period. they can both cost you money depending on extremities. the best thing to do is educate yourself so you can cut labor costs of dealerships. then, if you are to modify your vehicle such as a high flow filter, then use synthetic oil with a high capacity oil filter. if you have kooks long tube headers on your vehicle as I do, then get the appropriate tune. some guys just need a truck for work. they got money, they are not enthusiasts, just hard workers. they don't care for anything more than reliability. the dealership is for them. I know the dealership doesn't always the most qualified people but that is what the warranty is for. and if they don't want to deal with that then they need to start feeding themselves with knowledge.

@FXDX1450

that is the only reason I commented. it's because it's an article in which people can share knowledge and point of views. It is something more than just truck sales for last month or something posted on car and driver, motortrend, gminsidenews, or allpar a WEEK AGO. thing is, from what I've come to learn is that Pickuptrucks.com IS NOT a cutting edge news site but rather a gatherer of information regarding pickup trucks and industrial vans. they tried to add suvs like truck trend but some guys bitched to mark to stop.

@everyone

we deserve more articles in which we can use this blog as a simplified forum, not just hash n' bash.

@ Mark Williams

It's not about if people agree with the article or think of it as sheer advertising as much as there is a learning experience and we are all engaging in conversation. we need more engaging articles.

make one about exhausts, tuners, headers, throttle body spacers, winches, tire test comparos, suspension and body lifts, and anything else. have an suv comparo of Nissan, Toyota, gm, ford, Chrysler, and anyone else. we need a 2500 shoot out.

@Josh , agreed. I do not take issue with the articles , but the asinine fanboyism really get to be a bit much.

4 or 5 mpg improvement? LMAO!

Not worth the money and no better mpg from past experience. Also destroys air flow sensors which requires expensive replacement.

A $50 filter change from stock to K&N or Air Hog can give you the same improvements (depending on how you drive) with far less cost. I have experienced improved acceleration on nearly every vehicle where I've put K&N filters and typically a 2mpg improved highway economy when driving at my normal speeds.

There are those above saying you can't get both but they're wrong; you can get improved power for acceleration AND improved economy since you're not normally driving at maximum acceleration throughout your drive. How you drive, however, will determine how much improvement you see in economy.

Of course if you off road and water cross I would leave it factory. In fact mine has a snorkel. Doesn't breath as freely but its well worth saving the engine from water damage.

Wow a completely unbiased article from a manufacturer of a product including a dyno chart which is most assuredly real and totally not used in their advertising.

/sarcasm

Actually, under normal driving, non demanding loads the fuel trim will return to normal. However, when WOT is demanded, the additional air flow will temporarily allow the engine to run slightly lean. The additional airflow and leaner fuel mixture contributes to increased power. The engine ECU will then attempt to enrich the fuel mixture and in turn negate some of the initial power surge from the lean condition. Moral of this story, any engine air flow improvements ( cold air intake, upgraded exhaust system) should be followed by a ECM custom tune to take advantage of the additional air flow efficiencies and prevent a lean fuel condition.


Posted by: GMSRGREAT | Apr 16, 2016 6:02:46 PM

I would add that it does depend on the vehicle. At least in my experience adding a high flow filter and exhaust (cat back) the PCM was able to correct for the slight amount of added air at WOT. It does take time though because you are not WOT all the time and it has to take a lot of sample rates to determine the lean condition. In some of the newer vehicles the PCM will actually keep the 14.7:1 ratio at WOT. Which i hate. It will loose some power but keep the emissions tree huggers happy. You can really tell this on the Ford 3V V10 and the GM 6.0L with a slight surge at WOT. Before anyone says anything we have over 20 of these trucks and they all do it. This is where a tuner does come in handy as you mentioned. If you can get the ratio slightly richer in the 13.5:1 range you will see a nice improvement in power and smooth power.

One thing to remember is cars and trucks are designed to compensate for slight air leaks and will adjust within calibration limits to add fuel. Once you hit the threshold it will trigger a check engine light. After that you will likely notice some drivability issues. Vehicles are also designed around E10 fuels. E10 is slightly leaner than E0. Manufactures designed a margin of error for more or less E10 so the PCM will also add fuel if needed. Last I was told GM will adjust to around E15 and Ford will adjust to around E25. So this also shows that the PCM does have the ability to add or subtract fuel.

I don't know what you guys are talking about ruining airflow sensors, I have a 03 Silveradohd with the banks intake on it and no problems. It's been on for about 10 or 11 years now with the factory mass airflow sensor.

Ps it also has 263000 miles on it also

I don't really know what effect they have, maybe more power maybe better mileage. Not worth the $400 if thats all you are going to do in my opinion.

I actually removed mine when I bought my travel trailer because it was too loud in the cab under load.

$400 for 6HP and 12lbs T? Seriously? and mileage "better than 2MPG"? The MPG is impressive but how come it isn't quantified and left in that blurry "better than" territory?

As a kid I rushed out and put a K&N filter charger kit onto my 99 V6 Taco TRD... (looked just like this system only no box around the intake filter) All it did was make the intake very loud. Eventually it started messing up my mass air flow sensor and causing the engine to miss under load. So 7years later the factory system I had stashed in the attic went back on and the truck got quite and nothing seemed to change other than the missing stopped. Increase in power and mileage was not noticeable at all.

I have read that in order to be able to "feel/perceive" an actual increase in horsepower it needs to be at least 20HP. I believe it. But when you spend 400 you probably feel the power increase while its still in the box on the way home to put it on.

Google "stoichiometric ratio". The ECU on a modern vehicle will always keep the ratio where it's happy.

Therefore, more air in equals more fuel in!

It is IMPOSSIBLE to save gas with a mod that pushes more air into the engine than stock.

What this mod WILL do is suck your wallet dry, and let more dust and particulates into the engine. That has been proven.

Lol... yeah $400 dollars for loss of low end power, potential MAF issues, and heat soaking + higher IATs on long drives, sounds good to me!

There's a reason why all the dyno runs showing meaningful power improvements are done with the hood open and a gigantic fan in front of the car. Teh heat soaking is even worse if you run headers.

A reputable engine tuner came out and showed that that the highest average gains came from only replacing the intake tube and keeping the stock air-box/ air filter. That was on an older generation truck and even then they only picked up something like 15 hp/and something similar in torque. I'll wager with all the increased emphasis on fuel economy these days, that there just isn't really anything left to be gained, and it comes at the cost of increased intake droning. If you put one of those stupid open element filters in the only MPG improvements you can expect to see are from your lighter wallet creating less drag.

I don't know what you guys are talking about ruining airflow sensors, I have a 03 Silveradohd with the banks intake on it and no problems. It's been on for about 10 or 11 years now with the factory mass airflow sensor.

Ps it also has 263000 miles on it also


Posted by: Madmax | Apr 17, 2016 11:00:42 AM

@Madmax... yeah the Banks system is the only one I have seen that comes close to improving flow while also preventing excessive heat soaking by drawing air from the same locations the factory airbox draws from. MAF sensor problems are cause by two common areas, first on some vehicles some of the large open element filters send more turbulent flow to the MAF sensor which causes erratic readings (your truck has a MAF screen which prevents this to a degree but also restricts flow), second the end user puts too much oil on the filter.

The Banks intake is good, but it is also one of the most expensive systems on the market, and you can get 99% of the effect by just putting a $90 Airaid Jr. intake pipe in place of the stock one and leaving the factory airbox alone.

the article I was mentioning in my posts above http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/76687-bbp-independent-intake-test-results/

considering this is the first time I have seen a 6.2 ecotec3 on the dyno it would be interesting to know which transmission it had. I wanna compare rear wheel hp to flywheel hp with the 8 speed to see just how efficient it is. I know the hellcat doesn't lose much power through its 8 speed. considering the numbers above and this is a truck that transmission is efficient. however if it is a 6 speed the 8 speed has to be better.

Gotta love some of these comments. The dyno doesn't lie.

I suspect that depending on what you use to treat the oil filter it could foul sensors if you don't follow instructions or use an incorrect filter oil.

I used to see issues with 4 stroke dirt bikes especially mx bikes. Most filter treatments need to "sit and set" before riding. Race bikes also tended to be sensitive if you over-oiled the filter.

That sort of thing may be the case with these aftermarket filters.

I find that for the most part you are spending too much money for the gains you get. It tends to take 5 years to gain your money back if MPG is your goal.



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