Winter Driving Tip: Just Stay Cool
By Bruce W. Smith
Few things get a pickup truck driver's attention faster than feeling the tires slide on a snow-covered road. The heart skips a few beats. Adrenaline levels spike. Palms get sweaty. And it all happens in a second.
For seasoned winter drivers, maybe this situation doesn't happen often. But for other drivers it's unnerving to feel your pickup instantly transition from in control to out of control. How you respond will determine the final outcome. Will it be a panicked survival response or a thoughtful, logical reaction?
Our first piece of advice is to stay cool. That's what I learned during the beginners' safety class at the Bridgestone Winter Driving School in Steamboat Springs, Colo. When you stay calm and understand the basic principles of driving on slick surfaces, most bad situations can be kept under control.
Mark Cox, lead instructor and owner of the Center for Driving Sciences, which operates the school, emphasizes that vehicle control is predicated on driver patience and vehicle balance.
Cox said good winter drivers takes their time and keep their eyes focused as far down the road as possible so they "have time to react to changing conditions." He also stressed the importance of "steering, accelerating and braking smoothly," making fluid transitions in vehicle speed or direction, and keeping the vehicle's weight balanced over those four tiny patches of rubber on the ground.
I also learned you should either brake or turn but never try to do both at the same time when the roads are slick or icy. Brake first, slowly and cautiously, then lift off the brakes and turn, straighten the wheel, and then accelerate slowly and cautiously.
Another tip we received was to intentionally reduce the steering angle of the front tires if they slide while trying to make a turn. Counterintuitive? Definitely, but we learned that straightening the wheel even slightly can be a life saver in winter driving. Additionally, reducing steering input and backing off the throttle helps sliding tires get their grip back and start rolling again, gaining traction on the slippery surface again.
So here are basic winter driving rules: Brake. Steer. Accelerate. All separately, all smoothly.
And don't let the fact you have a 4x4 pickup get you in trouble. Overconfidence is not your friend. Four-wheel drive helps slightly while accelerating, but the heavier mass could easily be a liability when it comes to the laws of physics in steering and braking. And this is especially true when your four-wheeler is running wider, heavier, mud-type tires. During our recent winter tire test, wide mud tires provided the worst winter traction possible. We discovered tread types can play a huge role in control on plowed roads. In our test, the best traction by far came from dedicated studless snow tires.
The worst traction came from mud-terrain, larger-lug, high-void traction tires, which have about half the stopping or acceleration performance of mud- and snow-rated street tires (similar to those that are standard on most pickups). Generally speaking, all-terrain tires are only slightly better than street tires. The key here is to choose your winter tires accordingly - or drive with a clear understanding of the trade-offs.
When the pavement turns white, or is covered with a sheet of ice, be cool, be smooth. And pay close attention to what's happening ahead of you so you have time to make whatever driving adjustments are necessary.
In an upcoming article, we'll have a full comparison test of several types of tires using a pair of 2016 Ford F-150 SuperCrew Lariat 4x4s to see how each performed. For now, heed these recommendations.
Cars.com photos by Bruce W. Smith
Comments
Good article.
That thing about large void tires was very counterintuitive to me. Good to know with planning on buying tires next year.
What about weight in the bed? I know it makes things harder to stop as all weight does but it also helps with getting going. Usually I do weight my bed and have been happy with the results. Does weighting make a difference if the truck is a half or 3/4 ton?
Iv heard mixed feelings on the topic any thoughts?
Clint, I used to weight the bed as well in my 09 Ram, now that I have a 3/4 F250 diesel, I have not weighed the bed down and have had no issues in doing so, big difference between the half ton with no weight in the bed and the 3/4 in my own experience.
Mud tires or large void tires are like driving on 4 hard hockey pucks. Snow tires or tires with more siping help a ton!
I think weight helps. I've had 2WD trucks in snow and it is the only thing that can help get traction. Not sure about slowing down.
One of the big differences with mud tires is that they are not designed for cold temperatures. At or below freezing, they get very hard, and no longer stick to the road.
Snow tires are specifically designed to be soft and sticky at low temperatures.
@ Tim : tires with more siping for sure. Bridgestone Blizzaks, Michelin x-ice xi3, and Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2 to name a few. I have never been a fan of a little weight in the box just for traction, instead I adapt my driving style to easy on the gas and easy on the brakes and drive smooth as they say in the article. I can't overstate how much more traction the above mentioned tires offer over a typical all-season tire. They are worth the investment.
Im in central Ontario and we get lots of snow but our fair share of icey roads. Winter tires are everything. Its absolutely amazing how they transform your vehicle. Also, winter wiper blades are a must.
@gmsrgreat, you need to ease up in that GM truck for sure, the square wheel wells catch all the snow and then fall down on the tires making them useless
Unless you live in a region where streets are always snow covered during the t winter, it it a waste of money for snow tires. Even here in MN, the streets are only snow covered the day of the snow to a few days after. Beyond that, the street is dry. You are basically just running a winter tire on dry pavement. Yes, winter tires does wonders in snow covered roads but are a hinder on dry pavement. Your choice.
Unless you live in a region where streets are always snow covered during the t winter, it it a waste of money for snow tires. Even here in MN, the streets are only snow covered the day of the snow to a few days after. Beyond that, the street is dry. You are basically just running a winter tire on dry pavement. Yes, winter tires does wonders in snow covered roads but are a hinder on dry pavement. Your choice.
Unless you live in a region where streets are always snow covered during the t winter, it it a waste of money for snow tires. Even here in MN, the streets are only snow covered the day of the snow to a few days after. Beyond that, the street is dry. You are basically just running a winter tire on dry pavement. Yes, winter tires does wonders in snow covered roads but are a hinder on dry pavement. Your choice.
Thanks nitro, I currently run an 06 F260 SD with BFGs and usually I put 500ish lbs in the back. I lost control last year on a hilly patch of ice while driving too fast (it was all good till the shaded hilly curve that wasn't slush, all my fault). I ended up in a bank on the side of the road. No damage and it walked out on its own and I was on my way. Im debating on the weight this winter and on the fence about the new tires later this year.
@ Clint, you did say it was your fault and you were driving too fast, not sure weight will help on that one. My current tires are BF AT/TA's and it works fine with no weight but I'm also not in a hurry,hahaha.
@UH HUH, I agree with you as many times as you wrote that
I was weighted at the time and I think it helped me get out of the snow bank. I don't think it helped me into it.
A person should get "winter" tires NOT based on snow on the ground but based upon average air temperature. True winter tires have a snow flake inside a mountain symbol. http://www.ridebooker.com/blog/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/winter_tire.jpg
Temperatures consistently below -7C (19F) means you should have winter rated tires. These tires are designed to stay softer in cold weather which is what helps give you grip on the road.
People assume Mud and snow tires (M+S symbol) are all that you need. They will work better than an all season or "summer" tire in snow but may be much worse than an all season on icy terrain. Winter tires can have both a "winter" designation and a "M+S" designation.
Weight in the box - that does help balance out one's truck especially a longer box truck with a smaller cab. A reg cab 8 ft box will be much more tail happy empty than a 5.5 box crew cab. Weigh helps "balance" a vehicle but if one has a truck with HD tires i.e. 10 ply the extra weight will help the tires "warm up". We all know that load heats up tires.
The tips listed above do work. If one starts to loose traction in the front wheels (understeer) you can gain traction by slightly straightening the wheels. It does seem counter-intuitive but it works.
If one catches a wheel in deep snow or hardpack on the edge of the road for example you actually have to turn out more and apply some throttle to keep from getting sucked into the bank.
Some jurisdictions legally require winter or mud&snow tires. Quebec Canada made it a legal requirement for winter tires on all vehicles.
In BC where I live some of the highways and mountain passes have a legal requirement for winter or M+S tires. If you don't have them then you need mounted tire chains. The police can turn you back and your insurance can be voided in a crash.
There is always the debate of where one should put a set of winter tires or new tires on a vehicle if buying only 2 tires. My belief is that one should properly rotate tires and one should always replace all four. Driving and owning a vehicle is an immense responsibility and if you can't afford four good tires perhaps you can't afford a vehicle.
"Brake first, slowly and cautiously, then lift off the brakes and turn, straighten the wheel, and then accelerate slowly and cautiously."
It would be better to brake and as you begin releasing the brake you start turning, instead off fully releasing the brake then turning.
@Clint - I do think that the tires you are running have a winter rating but when talking to various tire shops they are a stiff tire and aren't the greatest in cold icy weather.
I'm running 10 ply General Grabber AT2's which have a winter rating but on ice they are worse than the stock Wrangler SR/A's my truck came with. The SR/A's were very soft and had poor life. I had to pull them off at 30,000 miles. The Grabbers look like they will go to 40,000 at least. They are great in mud, dirt, and deep snow.
I'm undecided as to what my next set of tires will be or whether I'll go with a set of designated winters and a set of all terrains.
I have seen the school at Steam Boat, pretty darn flat with no hills to go down with curves...
If getting into a slide and heading for something, turn slightly away from object and power your way past it, or lock the brakes up, shift into reverse and slowly give it gas. which is the fastest way to stop.
GMSRGREAT - Blizzacks are a good tire but are dual compound. Once you get down to around 1/3 of the tread left the compound is harder and will not grip as well. I prefer Michelin X-ice to them on my wife's vehicles. I had Nokian Hak's on a Ranger and they were great. A lot of guys love them on their pickups around here for winter use.
Agree with Lou_BC. I have General Ameritrac TR on my dually because they are Snowflake rated and are quite deep (18/32 when new), but still relatively mild in tread design.
One thing the article left out... wide tires of *any* tread design will float more than narrow tires. "Tall and skinny" tires concentrate more weight in the tire contact patch, and will help the truck get down to the pavement instead of riding over the snow.
I only wrote it once, must be internet glitch. I've always thought people intentionally post the same thing multiple times but I guess that's not the case.
@nitro: The square wheel wells are brilliant. They save weight and you can enjoy the benefits of safe strong steel truck.
@gmsrbad, but its not military grade
@nitro: one time it was thought that the world was flat, you believe what you want.
@Dave "If getting into a slide and heading for something, turn slightly away from object and power your way past it, or lock the brakes up, shift into reverse and slowly give it gas. which is the fastest way to stop."
"turn slightly away from object and power your way past it"
Depends on whether or not you have lost traction in the front or rear or both.
The first rule of object avoidance is not to look at it. We are hardwired to travel in the direction we are looking. That applies in spades to accident avoidance. Pick the most logical escape route and focus on it.
"Lock the brakes up" - you gotta be kidding me. ABS will not allow it (unless that is what you meant - hit brakes hard and let computer do the rest). ?????????????
What happens to a "locked up wheel"??
In snow all you do is plow it and it builds under the wheel effectively lifting your contact patch off the road. On ice a "locked up" wheel also has less traction since it will slide and the friction will build heat and create a film of water on the ice. Ever try to stand on wet ice? The key to driving in poor conditions is not to overwhelm traction or grip.
"Shift into reverse and slowly give it gas" - that an epic WTF? That isn't much different than "locking the brakes". It can be very hard on the drivetrain. I'm willing to bet most modern computer controlled auto transmission vehicles will not let you do it.
Tundra Bob -
As long as it isn't military grade snow or ice we will be fine. LOL
I will not give advice on driving in the snow and on ice. I have driven on these surfaces, safely. I drive as if I'm driving on slippery clay.
All I can say is always look at what is coming up and use as large a radius when turning.
The article is correct in keeping your head when things go wrong. But, this is for any situation.
"keeping your head"
Is that like, um, well, swallowing?
fits your profile ;)
@Lou_BC
This is your first comment I see funny. You finally loosen up. Congrats.
@RAM - The thought of moving to BC must have made you more mellow too :)
I live in a snow-belt state, and had grown up in another -- western NY in fact, where the word SNOW could be used in capitals.
Frankly, the most dangerous road surface to be driving on is neither cold snow nor cold ice. It is snow-pack or iced-over roads (from freezing rain) where the temperature is just about 30-32 deg F, --- and you have a nice water layer developing under the pressure from your tires.
This situation may look harmless: but watch out!
In fact, one of the "winter conditioning" techniques many of us did was take our pickups (usually with a couple to four bags of wood pellets in the back), and find an empty parking lot to intentionally put our trucks into skids and swerves at various speeds to practice recovery and learn once again how it feels.
Then many of the things the article describes above can be put into practice, and practice, and practice. (It's amazing how much technique you can forget over the previous year...)
By the way here is another situation in which the instant response and control from a manual transmission really shines. (^_^)...
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I am not moving there yet. Nothing to do there. I am just buying property for holidays and rifle testing.
NMGOM - excellent points. Agree 100%. Near freezing weather with wet compacted snow is as bad as water on ice.
Auto4 in my Silverado and Open Country ATII's have yet to fail me in moderate (6"+) fresh snow, thick slush, hard packed from plow blade, or mounded snow on roads from not being plowed. They get me out and back on frozen lakes fishing.
That's breaking and handling, acceleration is a lesser concern with proper snow tires, but in Auto4 they feel like they are nailed to the road.
Had Mich X-Ice on steelies and sold them after being so happy with the Toyos. I am a believer in snow tires, I will always recommend them to people, but these tires are great.
I have 2wd only so always put some weight in the back of the truck as soon winter comes to get traction..
Have all season Michelins,works awesome..
When you need to stop just hammer on the brakes the ABS does the rest and will stop just fine and straight..
even in corners it will slow and track perfectly keeping everything under control..
Abs is the best invention ever..so is the G80 locker,,never had any problems thru any deep snow yet..
When you need to stop just hammer on the brakes the ABS does the rest and will stop just fine and straight..
even in corners it will slow and track perfectly keeping everything under control..
Abs is the best invention ever..so is the G80 locker,,never had any problems thru any deep snow yet..
Posted by: Chevrolet builds a better way to see the USA | Jan 19, 2016 7:05:23 PM
There was many situations in my over million kms of driving and half of it in winter conditions, I wish I don't have ABS or at least button to turn it off.
Very dangerous and useless sometimes. The truck is unstoppable with ABS sometimes and would be fine without that in some situations I experienced.
@RAM
I somewhat agree about ABS disable. I had a 97 C1500 and when trying to stop at an intersection on a steep downgrade, the ABS would just keep going even though it was a relatively easy stop. Granted, ABS was a little crude back then. The new trucks are much better!
Not advised, but you can pull the ABS fuse if you want the ABS off (at least on the 95-98 CKs, that was one way ;)
@Ram- that only holds true under the most extreme of conditions. I've had ABS/Stability control get me into trouble in multiple occasions. That is usually off-road in conditions that most people would never venture into.
I know that one can disable traction control and stability control on most vehicles but they reactivate at preset speeds.
Ford's system reactivates at 35mph or 56kph unless you buy a Raptor which will stay off at any speed.
GM's trucks also reactivate at 35 mph or 56kph.
I tried to find information on Ram and it does appear that traction can be shut off but not stability control unless you are in 4lo.
The worst is if you are driving it in the mountains. Caught myself stuck in a blizzard a few years ago in the Blue Ridge area. God that was done scary driving. What do you guys use to weigh down the bed?
Red - I have a tool box in the back that empty weighs 150lbs. I always carry chains, cables, shovel, jacks, tools, and survival gear. That brings the weight up to 500lbs.
If one puts weight in the box it at least should be secured in place. I've seen many trucks with sandbags loose in the box stacked up at the tailgate. They get wet and turn into frozen projectiles that shoot forward in heavy braking.
I used to have a heavy canopy(cap) for my regular cab long box 3/4 ton. That worked really well and kept the box clean and dry. I also had the same toolbox in the back. Come to think of it, that same toolbox has been in every truck I have ever owned.
@ I'm using a heavy plastic one.
Love my hill decent.On my Prospector.
Many times I will check this site out when I am sitting on the toilet making a statue of Johnny Welfare!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yOlvL37680
I have 35" x 12.5" x 17" Toyo Open Country M/T's which are 10ply on my '05 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Our average winter temps are -30C (without windchill). They work great in mud, gravel roads, snow and sand, but on compacted snow/gravel mixed roads (can be icy) they are a little slippery at times. I've had these tires on my truck for almost 5 years now and are wearing out. Probably by spring time I'd have to change them out, what would be a great substitute if I were to try another brand?
Does anyone still use studded tires? I have a 2wd truck, and am a firm believer is studs. They are awesome on icy roads, assuming they are legal in your state.
Just bought a new 2016 Ram 1500 SXT Hemi Crew Cab 5.7box with the OEM Wrangler SR-A highway/all seasons on them
Wondering just how bad winter's going to be on those rubbers? I have a underflex tri fold tonneau on it and usually some tools in the bed at all times. When I have all my tools in the box im sure it'll have better weight/traction. Read somewhere above the crew cab short boxes are already balanced better when it xomes to the tail sliding.
This truck comes with 2wd, 4wd LOCK and 4low. Im guessing typical city driving will be left in 2wd im just used to a 4wd auto from a a 99 explorer (actual sport utility) with michelin m&s' s on it. Survived many winters with that setup and the back seat and trunk of the suv were loaded down with my typical tools on a day to day. As those tires wore and i started sliding more i got rid of the clunker. I'm guessing on an average canadian winterday i won't be able to use lock mode as if i would with the 4wd auto (2wd slip shits yada yada). If i drive in two wheel with the traction control on will it basically be the same performance? Just wondering this will be my first actual winter in a pickup. Looking for advice. Can't afford winters just yet. Might be able to a few weeks in.
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